Patrick Edlinger

  • Patrick Edlinger
Editor in chief, Performer
(Male)
Principal country concerned : Column : History/society, Media

Patrick Edlinger, born June 15, 1960 in Dax and died November 16, 2012 in La Palud-sur-Verdon, was a French climber and mountaineer.

Renowned for his free solo ascents, he was one of the pioneers of high-level free climbing and, in the 1980s, was one of the first media figures in the discipline. Introduced to climbing at the age of nine, Patrick Edlinger practiced regularly at fourteen and devoted himself to it fully at eighteen. Spending his days at the cliffs, he sometimes climbed solo, unable to find partners to belay him. With his friend Patrick Berhault, he distinguished himself with achievements that were difficult for the time, foreshadowing a different way of climbing, where the physical dimension was as important as the state of mind.

In 1982, Patrick Edlinger introduced climbing to the general public through Jean-Paul Janssen's documentaries, broadcast worldwide: "Life at Your Fingertips" and "Vertical Opera." In them, he free climbed and, in part, free-soloed routes in the famous Buoux (Luberon) and Verdon Gorges. Edlinger expounded on a climbing philosophy that blended hedonism, respect and love for nature, self-improvement, and a taste for risk. This way of life, combined with his youthful physique, would have a profound impact on the public. Patrick Edlinger, "The Blond," was not just a media figure; he was also a high-level climber, soloing routes rated 8a and also blazing routes of extreme difficulty for the time, up to 8b+/8c.

A true international star, Patrick Edlinger was, in the 1980s, the favorite personality of the French according to a survey by Paris Match magazine, which relayed his exploits. When the Manifesto of the 19 denouncing competition was written in 1985, he did not sign it. In 1986, he won the first international climbing competitions in Bardonecchia, then in 1988 in Snowbird in Utah. At this time, he launched his own clothing line, which he ran with a few friends. In 1988, an advertisement was broadcast featuring him to promote Grany cereal bars; it was repeated in 1998 and again in 2004. In July 1994, he participated in two official UIAA competitions: the L'Argentière master where he finished 34th and the Serre Chevalier master where he placed 17th. In 1995, Patrick Edlinger suffered a serious accident while climbing a cliff. While training in the calanques of Marseille on a 7b route and having skipped several belay points, a hold broke and he fell eighteen meters. He went into cardiac arrest and was resuscitated by a doctor on site, ultimately surviving only with a few muscle tears. He then retired from high-level climbing, but continued to climb at grade 8 for pleasure.

From 1997 to 2000, he was editor-in-chief of the climbing magazine Roc'n Wall, which was later merged into Vertical magazine. He stopped free-soloing after the birth of his daughter in 2002, and since 2009, he has run a gîte with his wife in the Verdon region. In 2011, he began writing his biography with the collaboration of his friend of 25 years, Jean-Michel Asselin. He died accidentally on November 16, 2012 at his home in La Palud-sur-Verdon, at the age of 52.







https://www.youtube.com/@PatrickEdlingerFC

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